Azores special: Step back in time in Ponta Delgada
The Azores' capital has history, breathtaking views and a perfect pace of life, says Frank Partridge
Published: 04 February 2006
WHERE?
In the sunny, south-west corner of São Miguel, the largest and commercially most important of the nine Azorean islands. Ponta Delgada's rapid expansion in the past 20 years has brought the archipelago its first university, shopping mall, international-class hotels and dual carriageway, and one in six of the Azores' 240,000 inhabitants now lives there. The clocks on this oceanic frontier are one hour behind GMT, and for all its development, life in Ponta Delgada is still conducted at a pleasantly slower pace than in urban Europe.
Arriving by air, you waste no time from the outset: transfers from the airport to the centre take under 15 minutes. All roads lead to the seafront, defined by the bustling Avenida do Infante Dom Henrique running along the lava-fringed shore between the old fort (16th century) and the new marina (1990), leaving room for a wide pedestrian promenade. Located here are the tourist office and the hub of the public bus network. The town's fine, original gates once stood here, too, but were moved a few metres inland to accommodate the new waterfront.
Basic orientation is simple enough. The sea lies to the south, the hills to the north, but exploring the cobbled streets and lanes by relying on the street signs is a sure way to get lost. In the historic, central area there are two signs per street, denoting their modern names (on white tiles) and their former names (on blue). So Rua António José d'Almeida, which it is now, is also marked antiga Rua Nova, which means that it used to be called New Street. To confuse you even further, the longer thoroughfares change their names mid-course, sometimes more than once. It all happened after the Azores became an autonomous region in 1976, but the original names have been preserved for the benefit of older people clinging on to the past.
Among several international-class hotels to open here in recent years is the Royal Garden Hotel (Rua de Lisboa, 9500 Ponta Delgada; 00 351 296 307 300; www.investacor.com). Doubles are from €110 (£77). Tucked away in the heart of the old quarter, the Hotel do Colégio (Rua Carvalho Araujo 39; 00 351 296 306 600; www.hoteldocolegio.com/pt) occupies the building that was once Ponta Delgada's music academy. It has an intimate atmosphere and an outstanding restaurant, A Colmeia (see box, facing page). Doubles from €80 (£56).
You don't have to go far to find peace and quiet in Ponta Delgada. Estalagem Senhora da Rosa (Rua Senhora da Rosa 3; 00 351 296 630 100; www.estalagemsenhoradarosa.com) lies amid lush gardens on a private estate, but is only a five-minute ride from the centre. Here, there are 28 classically furnished doubles (€61/£43) and 10 apartments (€87/£61).
For budget travellers, the family-run Hotel Residencial Hortênsia (Rua Nova da Misericórdia 482; 00 351 296 652 478) has all the essentials and is conveniently located about 1km north of the city centre. A double room with ensuite bathroom costs €50 (£35) per night. Prices at all hotels include continental breakfast for two.
WHY?
Most of the nine Azorean islands have been defined by a cataclysmic earthquake or volcanic eruption. São Miguel's darkest hour occurred in 1522, when its original capital, Vila Franco do Campo, was engulfed by a mudslide following a mighty earthquake. The survivors resettled at Ponta Delgada, which became the island's new capital 24 years later.
Since then, the port's fortunes have fluctuated dramatically, the high point coming in the 18th century, when São Miguel's prodigious early-season orange crop found a ready market in the British Isles. Some of Ponta Delgada's finest houses date from that period, notable for their lofty balconies and rooftop perches, from where spotters were employed to scour the horizon for the sight of the next schooner, prompting feverish preparations on land.
WHAT?
One of Ponta Delgada's most appealing features is its pavements, constructed from the only readily available building material: basalt. The effect is a black and white mosaic of cobbles, sometimes arranged to depict a feature of island life, such as a whale or a ship.
Pedestrians come into their own in the many gardens and squares, none more impressive than the Praça 5 de Outubro, also known as the Campo de São Francisco. On the north side is the Convent and Chapel of Our Lady of Hope (Convento da Esperança) which contains a wonderful collection of religious treasures. The square itself has an evocative statue dedicated to the countless islanders who emigrated to the New World, and comes into its own in the summer with its food and crafts market.
Architecturally, Ponta Delgada's many fine churches comprise a fascinating confusion of styles, sometimes brought together under the same roof when buildings were remodelled or enlarged. The austere 16th-century shell of Nossa Senhora da Graça was enlivened with Baroque mouldings and twisted columns a century later, while the remarkable Sao Pedro parish church, which started life in the relatively plain Gothic-Manueline style typical of the islands, was rebuilt in the 18th century in showy, flowery Baroque, daringly designed in octagonal form. While the various styles mirrored what was happening on mainland Europe, the basic building material - black basalt - gives all the churches a uniquely Azorean look.
Ponta Delgada could never be described as retail heaven, but things have improved with the opening of its shopping mall, Parque Atlantico, a short distance north of the centre. It contains the Azores' largest supermarket, which stocks wine and São Jorge cheese, and a good selection of shoe and fashion shops. Not cutting edge, but it's reasonably priced.
FIVE FOR FOOD AND DRINK
On the waterfront, O Roberto (Av. Infante Dom Henrique; 00 351 296 283 769) is so popular with the locals that a reservation is essential. Try the famous Cozido das Furnas, a meat and vegetable casserole slow-cooked for seven hours in the hot earth surrounding Furnas lake, and tinged with a not-unpleasant whiff of sulphur. A three-course meal with a glass of wine costs around €15 (£10.50) per head.
In this haven of plain cooking, Cervejaria (Av. Roberto Ivens 12; 00 351 296 283 300) prides itself on such fanciful creations as octopus in red wine, and black pudding with pineapple. There's also a range of tapas-style dishes ranging in price from 50 cents to €4 (35p to £2.80).
For a table with a view, head for the Terrace Café, part of the Hotel Talisman (Rua Marquês da Praia e Monforte 40; 00 351 296 308 500). It's located in an 18th-century conservatory looking on to one of Ponta Delgada's beautiful garden squares.
A Colmeia (Rua Carvalho Araujo 39; 00 351 296 306 600) is part of the Hotel do Colégio and adjoins the hotel's elegant open-air courtyard/swimming pool. Both the menu and wine list are unashamedly international, with prices to match.
Finally, the restaurant at the four-star Estalagem da Senhora da Rosa (Rua Senhora da Rosa 3; 00 351 296 630 100) offers a wide range of Azorean traditional dishes, as well as international cuisine.
TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
REACHING THE AZORES
Between April and October, the quick and easy way to get there is on SATA (0870 606 6664; www.sata.pt), which flies weekly from Gatwick to Ponta Delgada. For the rest of the islands, and at other times of year, TAP Portugal (0845 601 0932; www.flytap.com) flies from Heathrow or Gatwick via Lisbon.
From the Portuguese capital, connecting flights operate at least daily for Ponta Delgada on São Miguel; there are also departures less frequently to Terceira, Horta on the island of Faial, and Pico. Many are operated by SATA, with TAP Portugal "code-sharing". You could construct an "open-jaw" itinerary for no extra fare, for example flying out to Pico and back from Horta, taking the boat in between.
Fares start at around £275 return. If you intend to hop around the archipelago, it is worth buying inter-island flights at the same time (SATA issues inter-island vouchers.) One reason is because, as an international arrival, you qualify for a discount; also, if schedules go awry in the middle of a complex itinerary, the airlines will do what they can to help passengers get where they need. Staying over 10 days grants a discount of 10 per cent.
Another option in summer is to travel via Funchal in Madeira, from which SATA has connecting flights; this could enable you to visit Madeira on the same trip.
Finally, you could build the Azores in as a stop on a transatlantic journey. The islands were for many years a refuelling stop between Europe and the Americas. Today, SATA flies regularly between Ponta Delgada, Boston and Toronto. You will need an expert travel agent to construct a suitable itinerary - and must expect to pay considerably more than the usual price of a flight from the UK to Boston or Toronto.
For tourist information on the Azores call 0845 355 1212; e-mail info@ visitportugal.com; or see the website www.visitazores.org.
GETTING AROUND ON SAO MIGUEL
"This is a jumbo jet-sized island," said the friendly lady helping me decipher the bus timetable to get from one side of São Miguel to the other. Knowing the Azores to be mere specks in the vast ocean, I thought she was having me on. She was: "It's 747 square kilometres."
By Azorean standards, São Miguel is indeed elephantine, stretching 65km from western to eastern tip, although it's barely 8km wide at its narrowest point. But that still leaves a lot of coastline, and it's along the coast where the vast majority of the islanders live.
The bus network - the best on the Azores - covers most of São Miguel, but takes its time about it, although it does have to contend with remnants of 290 volcanoes, with a coastal rim of black lava deposits weathered into fantastic shapes. The longest journey, from the capital to the remote north-east, takes two and a half hours, and on days when sudden mists descend from the higher ground, a good deal longer. The consolation is half a day of ever-changing views - and a return fare of only €13 (£9). There are four services daily.
The buses set off from either side of the main drag along Ponta Delgada's waterfront.
If you want to roam where the bus never goes, rent a car or hire a taxi. The latter operate on a fixed-price basis, averaging around €13 (£9) an hour on weekdays, and €16 (£11) at weekends. A thrilling circuit of São Miguel's main volcanic lakes takes about four hours.
Ideally, you should leave your watch in the hotel and take as much time as you need, running the risk of getting lost by following a poorly signposted byway to goodness-knows-where. You're just as likely to stumble on an exquisite village nestling by a still mountain lake, as a dead end with nowhere to go but the Atlantic. Whatever the outcome, the journey will have been worthwhile.
Frank Partridge
by Independent.co.uk
