48 Hours In: Copenhagen
The historic Danish capital is easy to explore on foot. And now's the time to take advantage of the long summer nights. By Christine Rush
Published: 25 June 2005 by Independent.co.uk
WHY GO NOW?
Always a convivial bunch, Danes get a spring in their step during the long, light days and nights of midsummer - and it's a perfect time for visitors to appreciate Denmark's beautiful medieval capital, too. The Copenhagen Jazz Festival runs from 1-10 July. The season at Tivoli amusement park is in full swing, with illuminations and a puppet show as part of the country-wide celebrations for the bicentenary of Hans Christian Andersen. For details call VisitDenmark on 020-7259 5959 or see www.visitdenmark.com. Once in Denmark, keep your eyes peeled for a free copy of the English-language Copenhagen Post, which has an excellent listings section.
TOUCH DOWN
Flights are plentiful and, if you avoid peak travel, cheap. SAS (0870 60 727 727; www.scandinavian.net) flies from Aberdeen, Birmingham, Heathrow, Manchester and Newcastle; Maersk (020-7333 0066; www.maersk-air.com) flies from Gatwick and Manchester; British Airways (0870 850 9850; www.ba.com) flies from Heathrow; easyJet (0905 821 0905; www.easy-Jet.com) flies from Stansted; Sterling (00 45 70 10 84 84; www.sterling.dk) flies from Edinburgh; and BMI (0870 60 70 555; www.flybmi.com) from Edinburgh and Glasgow.
The train from Kastrup airport whisks you into central station (1) in just 12 minutes. Buy your ticket (Dkr25.50/£2.30 one-way) at the Danish state railways counter in Terminal 3.
GET YOUR BEARINGS
Just across the road from the station (1) is the main tourist office (2) (00 45 7022 2442, www.visit copenhagen.com). In July and August it opens 9am-8pm daily (except Sundays, 10am-6pm). Here you can buy a Copenhagen Card, which gives free entry to all museums, galleries and Tivoli (3), plus free bus, train and metro travel in Greater Copenhagen. It costs Dkr209 (£18) for 24 hours or Dkr439 (£39) for 72 hours.
One block east from the tourist office is the Radhuspladsen (Town Hall Square) (4) and the start of Stroget, Europe's longest pedestrianised shopping street.
CHECK IN
Skovshoved Hotel (00 45 3964 0028; www.skovshovedhotel.dk) is an exquisite boutique hotel in a tranquil diplomatic district (5) 7km from the city centre. Doubles start at Dkr1,400 (£126); breakfast is an extra Dkr98 (£8.80) per person. In the city centre is 71 Nyhavn (6) (00 45 3343 6200; www.71nyhavnhotel.dk), comprising two former spice warehouses perched at the harbour end of a 17th-century canal. Doubles from Dkr1,390 (£125), including breakfast at the weekend. Hotel Fox (7), at Jarmers Plads 3 (00 45 3313 3000; www.hotelfox.dk) has 61 rooms that are individually decorated. It is just a tipsy totter from the trendy bars of Norrebro and Vesterbro. Doubles from Dkr1,120 (£99), including a superb breakfast.
TAKE A HIKE
Almost all the key sights of the city are contained within the city's medieval "island" of Slotsholmen. Christian Donatzky, a historian, provides an ideal introduction to them via Copenhagen History Tours (00 45 2849 4435; www.historytours.dk). The themed English-language walks cost Dkr70 (£6.30) per person and take 90 minutes. They depart from the statue of Bishop Absalon in Hojbro Plads (8) at 10am at weekends, and on Mondays at 6pm.
LUNCH ON THE RUN
Take a seat on the sunny side of Nyhavn at Cap Horn (9) (00 45 3312 8504; www.caphorn.dk), an organic cafe that serves a traditional Danish lunch for Dkr145 (£13).If you're hungry and hurrying, on every other street corner around the city you'll find a polser (hotdog) stand, where a vivid red sausage, bun and assorted condiments will set you back around Dkr25 (£2.30).
CULTURAL AFTERNOON
Denmark took only four days to capitulate when the Nazis invaded in 1940: were the Danes herring-eating surrender monkeys or pragmatic rebels? The latter theory is explored at the fascinating Museum of Danish Resistance (00 45 3313 7714; www.frihedsmuseet.dk) on the corner of Esplanaden and Amaliegage (10). It charts the Second World War underground movement, whose members helped to ferry 95 per cent of Denmark's Jewish population to safety in neutral Sweden. It opens 10am-4pm daily except Mondays (to 5pm on Sundays), and closes one hour earlier in the winter; admission Dkr40 (£3.60), free on Wednesdays. For a pocket-sized introduction to Danish painting of the Golden Age, seek out the Hirschsprung Collection (00 45 3542 0336; www.hirschsprung.dk) at Stockholmsgade 20 (11), behind the overrated national gallery. It opens 11am-4pm daily except Tuesday, admission Dkr35 (£3.15; free Wednesday).
WINDOW SHOPPING
Head for the high-class junk shops around Ravnsborggaden, Ryesgade and Sankt Hans Gade in Norrebro for that Poul Henningsen lamp (or a good copy). The same streets have an array of handcrafted Danish clothing boutiques. At the other end of the market, ponder the high price tags on a porcelain plate at Royal Copenhagen (12) at Amagertorv 6 (00 45 3313 7181; www.royalshopping.com), in between the other home-furnishing havens of Illums Bolighus and Georg Jensen. A warning for late-risers, however: many shops close early on Saturday, and stay shut until Monday morning.
AN APERITIF
Kick off your evening at Gefahrlich (13), a groovy new joint spread over two floors at Faelledvej 7 (00 45 35 24 13 24), in Norrebro. A combined restaurant, bar, gallery, clothes boutique, record store and nightclub, at the weekends the cosy lower ground floor bar has a DJ and laid-back disco zone. Or take your White Russian (Dkr60/£5) upstairs to discuss life, art and politics with the locals at a long, communal dining table. The decor is typically Danish - white walls, wood floor and candles in every cranny - but unpretentious.
DINING WITH THE LOCALS
Soren K (00 45 3347 4949; www.soerenk.dk) is situated on the ground floor of the striking Black Diamond (14), the new extension to the Royal Library. Its sleek design and Modern European menu are consistently lauded by Copenhagen critics. A three-course meal with wine and water costs around Dkr600 (£54) a head, or you can choose a set menu for Drk350 (£31).
TAKE A RIDE
Denmark's medieval riches were largely derived from its seafaring prowess. For an insight on the marine development of the capital, settle in for a DFDS Canal Tour (00 45 3296 3000; www.canal-tours.dk). The large barges with English-speaking guides leave from Gammel Strand (15) and Nyhavn (9) every half hour between 10am and 7pm in summer, and take in the Little Mermaid, Christianshavn and the new opera house (already dubbed "the Toaster" by its detractors); Dkr50 (£4.50).
OUT TO BRUNCH
A few steps from the canal boat stop (15) on Gammel Strand 34, Thorvaldsens Hus (00 45 3332 0400; www.thorvaldsens-hus.dk) is the perfect spot to soak up some of the capital's rare rays. It has cooked breakfasts from Dkr79 (£7); the Nicoise salad (Dkr110/£10) and herring open sandwich (from Dkr65/£5.80) are also excellent.
In a trendier location, Skurks (16) at Norre Farimagsgade 63 (00 45 3391 4555; www.skurks.dk) has an outstanding day-to-night menu, with brunch from 89Kr (£8).
SUNDAY AFTERNOON: GO TO CHURCH
Vor Frue Kirke, the Church of Our Lady, (17) is the austere Lutheran cathedral where Denmark's Crown Prince Frederik married the Australian Mary Donaldson last year. It was built in 1829, and its interior was designed by the celebrated Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen. It keeps very long hours: 8am-5pm from Monday to Saturday (with evening opening from 8pm-12.30am on Thursdays and Fridays) and 8.30am-11pm on Sundays.
A WALK IN THE PARK
The Botanic Gardens (00 45 3532 2240; www.botanic-garden.ku.dk) (18) is one of the few locations in the city that is free of cyclists. Explore the delightful physic garden, lily ponds, Victorian Palm House and rock gardens on the city's former ramparts. It opens 8.30am-6pm until October, and 8.30am-4pm in winter.
TAKE A VIEW
A spiral staircase twists around the centre of Rundetaarn (19) (Round Tower) (00 45 3373 0373; www.rundetaarn.dk) seven and a half times before ejecting visitors at the top. Built by Christian IV in 1642, it is Europe's oldest working observatory. From the top, you can appreciate the simple layout of this low-slung city, with the odd copper spire poking out of a haphazard grid of five-storey blocks. Until September it opens 10am-8pm (Sundays from noon), and closes at 5pm in the winter; admission is Dkr20 (£1.80).
ICING ON THE CAKE
Cyclists rule the streets of Copenhagen, so follow the lead of the beautiful girls and boys by hiring a "city bike". From April to November, you can pop Drk20 (£1.80) into a slot at any one of 110 bike stands around the city, then join the hordes on the well-marked cycle lanes. The bikes are slightly clunky, and festooned with advertising, but you can use one for as long as you need and you get the money back when you return it to a stand. Be warned: if you're caught riding them outside the city limits you risk a Dkr1,000 (£89) fine.
