Antwerp: The perfect place for romance
For a decent proposal, Antwerp provides both the atmosphere and the stone
By David Orkin
Published: 15 October 2005 by Independent.co.uk
It's true that a kiss on the hand is quite Continental, but when romance is in the air and cupid is drawing back the bowstring your amour will most likely want more. Marilyn Monroe once hinted that girls were more enchanted by a particular kind of precious stone, the kind that - as Shirley Bassey pointed out - would last forever. But where should you go to combine a romantic break with the chance to find perhaps the most important stone of your life? The answer: Belgium's second largest city, Antwerp.
Within 40 minutes of alighting from the Eurostar in Brussels, you can be arriving at Antwerp's recently renovated Central Station, built over a century ago and dubbed the "Railway Cathedral", which makes for a special way to enter the city.
For centuries Antwerp has been the diamond capital of the world, and even now 80 per cent of the world's rough and 50 per cent of the world's polished diamonds pass through the city.
If you are considering buying loose diamonds or having a ring made, by buying in Antwerp you can easily save the cost of your trip - and have a romantic break into the bargain. For jewellery, expect to save at least 20 per cent on UK prices: there are also substantial savings to be made buying loose stones.
The diamond district starts just north of Central Station on Hoveniersstraat. You'll see armed guards everywhere, and traders hurrying to the diamond exchange, their briefcases handcuffed to their wrists. It's probably safer to avoid gold and diamond shopping in the mass of little shops on Pelikaanstraat but elsewhere you shouldn't have a problem, especially if you choose a shop that is an associate of ADJA - the Antwerp Diamond Jewellers Association (00 32 3 222 0545; www.adja.be).
Using a recognised dealer should also allay any concerns that you might be buying "conflict" diamonds - in parts of Africa, rebel and terrorist groups have mined diamonds and smuggled them out to sell overseas, using the proceeds from the resulting sales to buy weapons with which to control, exploit and brutalise the local population.
If you're thinking of proposing, one establishment that recognises the popularity - and importance - of the choice and purchase of a once in a lifetime engagement ring is Diamondland, Appelmansstraat 33A (00 32 3 229 2990; www.diamondland.be), which sells loose stones and ready-made jewellery, and custom-makes pieces. Ingrid Segers of Diamondland says that most of their customers who cross the Channel are in contact with the company for some time in advance, discussing their requirements and prices. A date and time is then arranged, allowing the company to have all relevant stones and designs ready for the visit. Diamondland incorporates a workshop where customers can see the best diamond polishers, setters and a goldsmith at work, transforming undistinguished stones into objects of glittering beauty. Guided tours are offered demonstrating production and explaining the four Cs - carat, colour, clarity and cut - which determine a diamond's value.
Antwerp's largest diamond showroom, Diamondland has teamed up with some of the city's leading four-star hotels to offer those who make a purchase costing over €950 (£700) one night's accommodation at their chosen hotel. And, as with all diamonds sold by the jewellers, you'll also receive a certificate telling you its exact specification and guaranteeing its quality.
Not all the city's more romantic hotels are on the list, though. With - as the name suggests - a décor the colour of traditional wedding dresses, delightful De Witte Lelie (the White Lily) Keizerstraat 16-18 (00 32 3 226 1966; www.dewittelelie.be) has a quiet location a short walk from the centre of the Old City. This 10-room stylish boutique hotel is made up of three 17th-century step-gabled houses. Doubles cost from €265 (£190) including breakfast.
But if you find 21st-century cutting-edge minimalist design more romantic, you might be better off in the heart of the fashion and art district at Slapen Enzo, Karel Rogierstraat 20 (00 32 3216 2785; www.slapenenzo.be), with doubles from €130 (£92) including breakfast. A tram ride from the centre is the Firean Hotel, Karel Oomsstraat 6 (00 32 3 237 0260; www.hotelfirean.com), where a classic Art Deco building houses comfortable well- appointed bedrooms and elegant public rooms. Doubles start at €157 (£112) including a breakfast that will set you up for the day.
But when love is in the air, one cannot live on breakfast alone. Luckily, in Antwerp, finding places to fill your stomach isn't hard. The city has over 200 restaurants where, for good value well-cooked food, it's hard to go wrong.. But on an amorous escape, it's not just the food that's important - there's also something called ambience.
Many of the city's top restaurants get very busy, so advance reservations are recommended. This is the case at De Kleine Zavel, Stoofstraat 2 (00 32 3 231 9691), a brasserie with a menu that focuses on seafood and has an extensive wine list. If style is your thing, bistro Confituur (Volkstraat 45; 00 32 3 237 0337) doubles as a lounge bar, art gallery and contemporary furniture boutique. Or try Neuze Neuze, Wijngaardstraat 19 (00 32 3 232 5783; www.neuzeneuze.be), where five tiny houses have been cobbled together to create a split-level restaurant with plenty of nooks and crannies, and offers French-Belgian cuisine. There's similar cooking at the French-Belgian bistro-of 't Hofke, Oude Koornmarkt 16 (00 32 3 233 8606), which has an arched cellar and interesting décor.
Belgium is also synonymous with seduction by chocolate. And in Antwerp it's hard to go wrong - its chocolatiers are almost uniformly excellent. There's nothing wrong with the big-name international brands but it's more fun to squeeze into the cozy shop of Hans Burie, Antwerp's most famous artisan chocolatier for over 40 years, at Korte Gasthuisstraat 3. His products include a range called "Chocolate Diamonds". Or why not combine two Antwerp icons and buy diamond-shaped chocolate cakes at Del Rey Patisserie, Appelmanstraat 5?
To avoid putting off your intended by piling on the pounds, burn off all the calories and explore the city by bike. Of course, the best way to be close to your loved one - and look sweet - is on the seat of a bicycle made for two. De Windroos at Steenplein 1a (00 32 3 480 9388) has a tandem for rent for €6 (£4.40) per hour (€16/£11.50 per day; conventional bikes are slightly cheaper). If you don't think that's lovey-dovey enough, jump into a horse-drawn carriage for a ride over the old city's cobbled streets.
The heart of Antwerp is the medieval old city of which the focal point is the Grote Markt, flanked by gabled guildhouses: look up and you'll see the tower of the magnificent Cathedral of Our Lady, dating from the 14th century. Fanning out from this main square is a labyrinth of cobbled lanes and tiny winding streets packed with an array of bars, restaurants, boutiques and shops.
If you're looking for places that will draw back the string of cupid's bow, and where you can genuflect and pop the question, the Cathedral is beautifully illuminated at night, and if there aren't too many revellers around when darkness has fallen its surrounds can be atmospheric and very romantic.
During the day, the two of you can escape the city's hubbub at the 16th-century Beguinage (entrance on Rodestraat), which has a beautiful inner garden. The gardens of three of the city's best museums are also delightful spots. Choose between that of the Plantin-Moretus Museum, Vrijdagmarkt 22 (00 32 3 221 1450; www.museum.antwerpen.be/plantin_moretus), the Rockox House, Keizerstraat 12 (00 32 3 201 9250; www.rockoxhuis.be) or the one at the Rubenshuis, Wapper 9-11 (00 32 3 201 1555; www.museum.antwerpen.be/rubenshuis) home and studio of the city's most famous son, the great baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. Incidentally, another of the city's past residents, Adolphe Sax, invented and lent his name to the saxophone; and if you're looking for somewhere to enjoy mellow - often live - jazz, De Muze (Melkmarkt 15; 00 32 3 226 0126) hits the spot.
Despite being some 50 miles from the sea Antwerp is one of Europe's largest ports: few of us get starry-eyed over docks, but walk the terraces of the River Scheldt, the second largest river in Europe, or cross under the water through the Art Deco St Anna pedestrian tunnel and you'll find a number of delightful spots to gaze at the river, the city skyline and, of course, into each others' eyes.
And if wedding bells are imminent, you'll need to buy a hat: at 3.30pm daily (except Sundays and Mondays) you can have High Tea while selecting that special piece of headgear at the Hoedensalon, Oude Koornmarkt 62 (00 32 3 233 5928; www.hoedensalon.com).
TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
GETTING THERE
Air
Antwerp has only one air scheduled link with Britain - indeed, with anywhere: the frequent VLM (020-7476 6677; www.flyvlm.com) service from London City. Fares are often available at under £100 return if you book ahead and avoid peak flights.
Antwerp's Deurne Airport (00 32 3 285 6530) is three miles south-east of the city centre. A taxi into town costs around €15 (£11), but bus 16 runs briskly to Centraal station for €1 (70p).
From elsewhere in Britain, the air solution is to fly to Brussels National airport - there are buses every hour or so direct to Antwerp, taking less than an hour. Even Amsterdam is a possible gateway; the airport has direct flights every hour to Antwerp.
Train
From South-east England, rail is probably the easiest solution. Eurostar (08705 186 186; www.eurostar.com) runs from London Waterloo via Ashford to Brussels Midi in around 2 hours 20 minutes (40 minutes less from Ashford). Fares from either station start at £59. Your Eurostar ticket to Brussels allows you a free connection by train to anywhere in Belgium; just show the ticket on board. Fast and frequent services take around 45 minutes from Brussels Midi to Antwerp Centraal.
Sea
To reach the port of Zeebrugge, you can sail from Rosyth on Superfast Ferries (0870 234 0870; www.superfast.com) or from Hull on P&O North Sea Ferries (08705 980 333; www.ponsf.com). From the port, Antwerp is about 80 minutes by road. The short-sea crossings to Calais or Dunkirk in France are much cheaper. From Dunkirk, the road journey takes two hours; Calais is 20 minutes further.
GETTING AROUND
City transport comprises buses and trams operated by De Lijn, which runs services across Flanders. Some tram lines run partly underground. Bus lines mostly begin outside Centraal Station. Single-journey tickets, valid for transfers within one hour, cost €1 (65p). A carnet of 10 costs €7.50 (£5.50). A one-day pass bought in advance is €3 (£2.20). A three-day pass (valid on De Lijn in Flanders) costs €7.50 (£5.50), a week's unlimited travel is €10 (£7).
Taxis are available; to book, call Antwerp Taxi on 00 32 3 238 38 38 or Metropole on 00 32 3 231 31 31.
For more information, contact Tourism Antwerp (00 32 3 232 01 03; www.visitantwerpen.be).
