Plate With A View: The Lorenz Adlon, Berlin
By Margaret Kem
Published: 29 October 2005 by Independent.co.uk
THE PLATE
Thomas Neeser, the head chef, won a Michelin star in 2003. Having trained in France and Germany, his dishes reflect the best of both countries; classical and innovative. Discover saddle of venison in a chanterelle pancake crust, served with vinegar cherries and celery soufflé. Or John Dory, pan-fried, in a courgette blossom, served on cold sorrel mousse with lemon-vanilla sauce and tomato compote. Wines are matched with dishes, by glass or bottle. Head sommelier Arno Steguweit not only helps to select wines, but offers 42 mineral waters from 18 different countries.
THE VIEW
The Lorenz Adlon's sky-high, sound-proof, bullet-proof windows look out on to the Pariser Square, housing the French Embassy, several banks, and the Brandenburg Gate, which was isolated in no-man's-land during the Communist years. It's now buzzing with tourists. The Gate, modelled on the entrance to the Acropolis, was commissioned by Friedrich Wilhelm II in 1791 and designed by Karl Gottfried Langhans to represent peace. In the second half of the 20th century it became the symbol of a divided world. That eye-catching glass dome you can spy is the top of Sir Norman Foster's reconstruction of the Reichstag building. The restaurant (jackets more or less required) is named in homage to the hotel's founder, Lorenz Adlon, who wanted The Adlon (which cost 20 million gold marks) to set standards for the future, and become synonymous with unparalleled luxury.
THE BILL
The seven-course tasting menu was worth every euro (€160/£114 plus wine). A la carte main and dessert costs €54 (£39).
Hotel Adlon Kempinski, Unter den Linden 77, Berlin (00 49 30 22 61 11 11; www.hotel-adlon.de)
