Dolmen

Hotel Of The Week: Castello di Gargonza, Tuscany

The perfect solution for a very special occasion? Hire your own hamlet. Like Castello di Gargonza in Tuscany

By Aoife O' Riordain

Published: 08 January 2006 by Independent.co.uk

Never mind booking one property for a special occasion, how about a whole medieval hilltop hamlet, such as the charming Castello di Gargonza in southern Tuscany. Peeping through a dense forest of pine and cypress trees, it is surrounded by fortified walls, topped by an impressive tower and offers panoramic views to die for. Step through the only entrance to the village, a single arch with a plaque commemorating Dante Alighieri's visit in 1302. Within is a small piazza complete with octagonal well, off which tiny streets radiate, lined with a handful of houses in which your guests can stay. The tiny church, with its 15th-century fresco, makes it a great venue for weddings (you must be Roman Catholic).

Little seems to have changed since the village was built, in the 13th century. It bounced between rival families from Siena and Florence until it fell into the hands of the ancestors of the current owner, Count Roberto Guicciardini Corsi Salviati, in the 16th century.

By the middle of the last century, Gargonza's 300-strong population had dwindled to a handful of residents. The present Count decided his only option was to open it to paying guests. So in the 1970s he began the painstaking process of restoring Gargonza to its former glory, making some concessions to modern tourism such as the swimming pool outside the village walls, though there are no TVs in the rooms.

The results certainly make for a memorable place to stay - the only sound is the chirrup of the swallows and the chime of the church bell.

The comfort factor

There are 23 apartments of varying size and one five-bedroom farmhouse outside the walls, all named after former residents. Each is unique - some are reached by a flight of narrow vertiginous steps, others are built into the village walls. All are in the process of being updated, so it's a mixture of the modern and less so. Apartments can be rented on a three-nightly or weekly basis - the entire village can be rented for celebrations.

The bathroom

Functional, although those in the refurbished apartments are more luxurious. All have baths and showers.

The food and drink

Each apartment has a small kitchen. Just outside the walls the Torre di Gargonza, a restaurant set up by the Count, serves simple Tuscan fare such as Chianina beef with wild mushrooms.

The people

There's a good cross-section of guests and the occasional group of well-read day-trippers having a look around.

The area

Gargonza is in the heart of the rolling Valdichiana and is well-placed for exploring southern Tuscany. Arezzo, with its stunning 15th-century frescoes by Piero della Francesca, is 20 minutes' drive; Cortona and Siena are within easy reach.

The access

Due to the village's unique nature, wheelchair access is very limited. Children are welcome. No pets.

The damage

B&B starts at €110 (£78) per night, minimum stay of three nights.

The address

Castello di Gargonza, Monte San Savino, Tuscany (00 39 0575 847 021; gargonza.it).

LIKED THAT? TRY THESE

* Opening April, Il Borghetto di Chiena (00 39 055 860 5550; borghetto dichiena.it), near Florence, is a huddle of 11th-century houses.

* Il Borro (00 39 055 977053; ilborro.com), near Arezzo, is a medieval village for rent.

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